On the roads and trails of a National Wildlife Refuge, one must always keep in mind that the wildlife has the right-of-way. During my three weeks in the refuge, I have watched and waited as many creatures crossed the road: a snapping turtle the size of a bushel basket, a tiny Blanding’s turtle, garter snakes, whooping cranes and egrets, geese, a massive porcupine, lots of deer, and recently, this spectacular pair of Sandhill cranes, who strutted slowly down the road in their feathered gowns as if they were eco-fashion models on a graveled catwalk: